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Post by Rocket on Mar 6, 2016 23:13:44 GMT
I'd like to suggest your saddle height is too high. You have a proper toe down position at bottom of stroke with a straightish leg. I struggled with left hamstring pain for over 18 months. After dropping my saddle only 3mm and moving it back 5mm I'm just about pain free.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 6, 2016 23:35:59 GMT
Parallel posts, so pretty much two independent opinions there but both with the same inkling - so perhaps worth trying it down a bit then review over time.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 0:12:32 GMT
Duly noted and I'd temdnto agree. I had noticed a smidgen of hip rocking on the turbo. I'll bring it down just a couple of mm.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 8:54:38 GMT
Hips should not rock one bit so I'd agree with Rad and Rocket on the saddle height. My fitter spend a long time adjusting saddle height, mm's at a time, to get it spot on, i.e. no overstretching or hip rocking.
You mention being surprised at how upright you look. To me your arms look almost locked out at the elbow, I'd suggest relaxing the arms a little and getting some bend at the elbow. This should increase comfort and drop the body a little. I don't think a longer stem will help but difficult to tell without seeing you ride.
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Post by goffski on Mar 7, 2016 9:47:26 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 12:44:01 GMT
I shall borrow the good ladies phone.
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Post by derekv4 on Mar 7, 2016 17:53:13 GMT
I'm no bike fit expert but a few observations from me.
Legs are too stretched based on your heels being way above your toes on the downstroke - lower the seat post - and because you lowered it the saddle may then need to go further back
Arms are locked out, should have a relaxed bend in them, it may just be how you sat on the bike at the time but it may also be that the stretch from saddle to bars is too long (try a shorter stem - though lowering the seatpost will also help with that)
As said above, put heel (in shoe) on peddle spindle and leg should be almost locked out in that position, then when you clip in you will have a shallow bend.
But rather than keep making self adjustments and going mad, better to go to a respected bike fitter and get your measurements sorted.
Good luck with it, it makes a big difference when you get it right.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 18:15:44 GMT
I'm no bike fit expert but a few observations from me. Legs are too stretched based on your heels being way above your toes on the downstroke - lower the seat post - and because you lowered it the saddle may then need to go further back Arms are locked out, should have a relaxed bend in them, it may just be how you sat on the bike at the time but it may also be that the stretch from saddle to bars is too long (try a shorter stem - though lowering the seatpost will also help with that) As said above, put heel (in shoe) on peddle spindle and leg should be almost locked out in that position, then when you clip in you will have a shallow bend. But rather than keep making self adjustments and going mad, better to go to a respected bike fitter and get your measurements sorted. Good luck with it, it makes a big difference when you get it right. You are correct good sir. I'm happy to here that the general consensuc is that I need to make the fit a tad smaller if anything. I keep panicking thinking I've bought the wrong frame size but if I'm lowering the saddle and locking my arms out then I should be ok on that front. Will knock a few mm off the saddle height on the turbo tonight. It will reduce the reach a tiny bit I'll still have the saddle as far forward as it will go. At least seat posts are relatively cheap (can be cheap). Though thte bars and stem still need swapped out for nicer ones so may as well do the lot at the sasme time. Needs for glossy to match the paint.
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Post by Rocket on Mar 7, 2016 18:32:55 GMT
Saddle fore/aft is part of leg fit to get your knees over pedal spindle with cranks horizontal. You don't move it to alter your reach to the bars. That is done by changing stem length.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 20:02:46 GMT
I'll whip up a plumb line.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 21:56:01 GMT
Saddle moved down by about 7mm. Footage shows I'm still slightly toe down at the bottom of the stroke but I suspect a bit of technique issues due to time off the bike playing a part. No string handy for a plumb line but I'll try that tomorrow perhaps. www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUCv4k6uYXs
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 7, 2016 22:55:31 GMT
May have gone a little too far the other way but looks OK, if it's more comfortable and the hamstring thing eases, then best just ride it now - I lock out arms on turbo but don't so much on the road; work on dipping the arms a bit on road if you're locking out, you probably will naturally when steering and balancing more. Perhaps nudge the seat back up over time. If you keep locking out arms, then perhaps stick a spacer from on top to below - flexibility will return over the summer, in which case you may be able to nudge that back down as well. You're after comfortable bent arms on hoods, tucked in hands covering breaks on drops - a sense like holding an imaginary ball in front of you, with relaxed arms and shoulders, not looking like you've locked arms out after doing a press up.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 7, 2016 23:00:36 GMT
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 7, 2016 23:01:38 GMT
Obviously this guy's pretty bike fit / flexible but you get the gist !
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 23:15:49 GMT
There's a little 5mm spacer on there that I'm going to out on the bottom. It should bring the bars up and back ever so slightly.
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