Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2015 14:10:52 GMT
hey all,
quick one for you- im going to change my wheels on the 500se- either to the shimano 501 or the aero 2024 is it worth changing the cassette to more gears or am i stuck with same rear cassette?
|
|
|
Post by goffski on Jun 1, 2015 14:28:26 GMT
You can't change just the cassette to gain more gears, but you can change it for something like a 12-28 or even a 12-31 to make it easier on hills.
Any reason for wanting more/easier gears?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2015 14:39:23 GMT
truth is, ive just picked the bike up, and wanted to get it all sorted and most optimal so i dont have to mess around with it. its 2nd hand, needs a bit of tlc bit scratched (hoods and levers and frame) and the wheels have seen better days. So wanted to just get it all as close to fresh before i started using it.
|
|
|
Post by william39 on Jun 1, 2015 14:42:47 GMT
New chain and cassette is worth while for the price. You want 8 speed, SRAM PG 850 is popular. 11-28 if you are in a hilly area or 12-26 if not. I've got the Shimano HG-51, very similar just see what deals you can find.
|
|
|
Post by mark072 on Jun 1, 2015 16:41:55 GMT
The standard gearing with the triple chain set up front and 12/25 rear gives you a lowest gear that should get you up the steepest of hills - this is 30 x 25 (smallest chain ring on front and biggest on cassette). I changed the cassette to a 11/28 so that I could get up just about any climb using the middle chain ring (the 34) and using the 28 on the rear. This way you don't get the chain rubbing noise from the crossed chain when it is on the smallest 30 teeth front size and on the 23 or 25 rear for example. It changes it to a double chain ring compact in a way which is a 34/50 as I now only have to use the 39/50 on the front with the 11/28.
|
|
|
Post by william39 on Jun 1, 2015 16:54:09 GMT
The chain isn't crossed when in 30-25 or 30-23, it is more optimal than middle ring and biggest sprocket. If the chain is rubbing then your low limit screw is poorly adjusted. If you don't need easy gears and stick with the triple then you should fit a 12-23 or 12-21 giving you nice close ratios. Otherwise just get a double crankset. Not expensive and works fine with exisiting shifters.
|
|
|
Post by Radchenister on Jun 1, 2015 17:04:15 GMT
The standard gearing with the triple chain set up front and 12/25 rear gives you a lowest gear that should get you up the steepest of hills - this is 30 x 25 (smallest chain ring on front and biggest on cassette). I changed the cassette to a 11/28 so that I could get up just about any climb using the middle chain ring (the 34) and using the 28 on the rear. This way you don't get the chain rubbing noise from the crossed chain when it is on the smallest 30 teeth front size and on the 23 or 25 rear for example. It changes it to a double chain ring compact in a way which is a 34/50 as I now only have to use the 39/50 on the front with the 11/28. That's a curious explanation to justify an 11-28 cassette. You shouldn't get any noise in 30 front and the first few cogs on the left rear if set up right. There are times when a beginner might need a 30 - 28, if they're not a natural climber and say going at a hill that's 15 - 20% or over for example. We know that it's a leg saver to spin rather than power it, particularly useful on longer rides, the naturally light better climbers might even decide to spin the granny at times to save legs when they're starting out and getting fitter / pushing their mileage out. Out of interest, what do you call 'the steepest of hills'? Edit: quoted as parallel post with one above, which also makes sense.
|
|
|
Post by mark072 on Jun 1, 2015 17:27:59 GMT
Depends on where you are and what sort of hills you will be climbing during the rides out. I live near Derbyshire and there are steep climbs within a 30 mile radius. The 39 x 26 gets me up most including Curbar Gap. The steepest of climbs using 30 x 25 for me would be something like a 1 in 4 (25%) but there are not that many climbs that steep. For a starter it may be worth changing the rear to a 28 or 30 if intending on doing climbs of that gradient.
|
|
|
Post by Radchenister on Jun 1, 2015 17:48:17 GMT
So you see no merit in spinning for yourself? Got any Strava so we can judge your epic climbs for ourselves?
|
|
|
Post by mark072 on Jun 1, 2015 18:01:15 GMT
Am a bit stuck in the 80's when it comes to things like that I just use my watch and time myself over an estimate of the miles for the average speed, have not got a cycle computer either so I have to guess my highest speed
|
|
|
Post by Rocket on Jun 1, 2015 18:12:34 GMT
What's that saying....? Ah yes, if it ain't on Strava it didn't happen Also if you can't measure it you can't manage it. Your approach is fine if you just enjoy riding but sooner or later you are going to want to know if you are improving and then the statistics start
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2015 18:16:41 GMT
back to original question. I have the shimano r501 wheels excuse the newbie explanation of tech but I fitted the 10 speed cs5700 cassette but I also changed everything to suit as a project for myself so it can get expensive to up the gearing as the indexing for the cassette spacing/shifters change at the 9,10,11 speeds I believe?? I have compact crank 34-50 @175mm and cassette is 11-25 for my weight/fitness im just getting by with low gearing on some steep climbs but I think its good for my progression. on another note I thought the original gearing 30-25 was too low and spinning as if my clutch was slipping. I don't do strava id just embarrass myself - not competing with my ego just try and smash my lungs and legs lol
|
|
|
Post by william39 on Jun 1, 2015 18:28:35 GMT
R501 are not 11 speed compatible. No need to struggle with an 11-25, much more enjoyable to spin an easier gear. All depends what rear derailleur you fitted. Short cage should be fine up to 28 but if you want more then you would need a medium cage. A good aim is to keep cadence at 80+ especially if the climbs are any distance. I am personally running 50-34 with 11-28 cassette which is fine on long climbs up to 8%. I will go with an 11-32 cassette next time because it is less tiring to spin an easier gear.
|
|
|
Post by Radchenister on Jun 1, 2015 18:30:14 GMT
Am a bit stuck in the 80's when it comes to things like that I just use my watch and time myself over an estimate of the miles for the average speed, have not got a cycle computer either so I have to guess my highest speed I guess there's something to be said for just riding so fair play - I suspect you can get that front mech' trimmed right so you can access the rear better on steep long rides, which is what the advice above was geared at. I'm now on standard triple gearing on my old T3 at 12-25, rather than compact and 11-28 on my FCF700 and quite like the triple for easier listening winter rides, ones that are long but not too intense (laying the base and keeping the calories off) but when I started out I wouldn't have wanted to head off long into Wales or the Cotswolds with that gearing on. These days I can shoe horn up steep stuff pretty well in bigger gears but I'll do it sparingly, as it does no good to the legs, particularly if going long, it's sometimes worth just having the easy ones there for those times when burned out and is a good call for many beginner riders as they up their distance touring unknown territory. If they're on SPDs and don't mind walking up a peaky bit then it's a slightly different story of course.
|
|
arranj
Peloton Rider
Posts: 281
|
Post by arranj on Jun 10, 2015 14:07:51 GMT
FYI I'd do with Aero 2024 as they are basically the same as Mavic Aksiums, and are in my experience far superior to the R501's.
However you can get a pair of R501's for Β£60 and the rear alone of Aero 2024 is around Β£60.
|
|