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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 17:44:17 GMT
Endos here as well, I used to be able to do front hops as well but reckon I'd snap carbon if I tried it on the T3 lol !
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Post by chas on Jul 4, 2013 17:54:55 GMT
Endos here as well, I used to be able to do front hops as well but reckon I'd snap carbon if I tried it on the T3 lol ! I assume everyone's seen this, but just in case www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 18:07:07 GMT
Yep, when it came out - all pretty good, although not sure the rail bridge part was the wisest example to kids; dead or seriously injured falling from that one and as we know from the out takes he doesn't get them all right every time.
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Post by oldtimer on Jul 4, 2013 20:40:58 GMT
When I bought my T3 the guys in Sheffield spent ages tweaking saddle and bar configurations until I felt comfortable. Even changed the bar for a shorter version. My OH followed a month later, and had tyhe same experience, and even persuaded them that an adjustable stem should be thrown in for free. No problems there, and great service from Sheff.
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Post by stevo on Jul 4, 2013 20:45:13 GMT
You say Endos, I say endies, let's call the whole thing off. ;-)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2013 21:23:35 GMT
Well, certainly a wide range of responses there. From the reasoned to the ridiculing. Each to his own, I guess. First of all, let's be clear, I'm not a WUM. As posted at the outset, I've not had a bike with derailleur for some years. I don't have the know-how to be confident in diving into regular maintenance e.g. of gears. Hence me wanting the confidence that when I took the bike away from the store, the gears would be perfectly aligned. From the conversation I had with the guy in the store, I didn't have any confidence that this would be the case at all. Re the brakes, my R8 has disk brakes. It can stop in under half the distance that I was able to stop the R3 in. Fact. Non-negotiable, I'm afraid. Perhaps I've been spoiled by having disk brakes, and I just need a reality check on that front. I think I've also read somewhere that brakes are a relatively obvious, worthwhile, and cheap, early upgrade for a T3? Do the brakes work better out of store than in-store?! I am still very much considering my options with regards a Triban, and I'm actually wondering if I might go with a 5A instead when they are in stock (doesn't seem to be much stock either in store or in warehouse). I love the red 3 but I think I might be swayed by the slightly better components on the black 5A. I suppose the real point of my thread was about the bedside manner I got in store, and how that made me feel, given that I was pretty much intent on buying the T3 at the point of entering the store. My post wasn't intended to be an overt criticism of what I fully appreciate is a great value bike. Anyhow, I appreciate your various comments! Cheers...
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 21:43:00 GMT
No prob's, so perhaps you are for real - we get the odd leg puller on here, apologies for doubting you.
Now I might see where you're coming from with some of the comments that you made, although I still wonder how you're testing the large front cog in a store without getting above 20 kmh, as you need to be moving for these gears to click over sweetly; if you're comparing disks to road calipers, then you will of course notice a huge difference. IMO comparing disk brakes to road brakes is not a like for like exercise; whether road bikes / brakes should go to disk or even hydraulic (as Cavendish has just gone) is a huge subject in itself. Cyclocross bikes have disks though, Kona do a nice variant or two.
Personally I would query where you're going to need to be braking like that; disks might make sense on a MTB but to begin with, when riding normal roads on a T3, unless you live in somewhere like say Wales, the Peak District, The Dales etc. then a simple Clarks brake block upgrade would do it. I have only just done this, as I've only recently felt the need after going further afield onto steeper terrain into Wales and the Cotswolds - having gained the ability to go far enough and climb enough to find long steep hills. IMO standard road brakes and road sense / skills should be ample to keep you safe for normal road riding.
If you're after flawless gears, then we're in tricky territory with a triple - this will be the same on almost every road bike that has one. Going to a dual / compact front end might be an option (like the T7) but you'll need to be reasonable at hill climbing to make that step, as the triple is fickle and needs tlc but more forgiving of newbies in terms of climbing and fitness.
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jul 4, 2013 21:52:08 GMT
id like to teach the world to sing.....
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 21:54:52 GMT
We're not out the woods yet fella, now onto disk brakes on roadies lol !
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jul 4, 2013 22:18:26 GMT
suppose its coming whether we like it or not
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 22:24:58 GMT
I will stay old fashioned then, hydraulic appeals more than disks though ... nice top end disks may be smooth for all I know but I've not used top end ones; the few medium / lower spec MTB ones I've had a go on made a wretched grating sound, were nowhere near as nice as the ones I had on my motorbikes and IMO if you handle a bike well, then it's rare you'll need to stand it on the nose to that extent, in fact I've seen people grab a fist and lock up and slide the front out. Re' hydraulics, they may be better and might have more progressive application / feel, as well as power, Cavendish was claiming it helped to miss the crash on day 1 of TdF this year, guess today's incident was karma balancing itself again after he said that ?!
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jul 4, 2013 22:37:28 GMT
I will stay old fashioned then, hydraulic appeals more than disks though ... nice top end disks may be smooth for all I know but I've not used top end ones; the few medium / lower spec MTB ones I've had a go on made a wretched grating sound, were nowhere near as nice as the ones I had on my motorbikes and IMO if you handle a bike well, then it's rare you'll need to stand it on the nose to that extent, in fact I've seen people grab a fist and lock up and slide the front out. Re' hydraulics, they may be better and might have more progressive application / feel, as well as power, Cavendish was claiming it helped to miss the crash on day 1 of TdF this year, guess today's incident was karma balancing itself again after he said that ?! i remember campagnolo did a nice neat delta brake and they looked beautiful and id love to have something like that Attachment Deleted
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 4, 2013 22:42:00 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2013 23:00:42 GMT
No prob's, so perhaps you are for real - we get the odd leg puller on here, apologies for doubting you. Now I might see where you're coming from with some of the comments that you made, although I still wonder how you're testing the large front cog in a store without getting above 20 kmh, as you need to be moving for these gears to click over sweetly; if you're comparing disks to road calipers, then you will of course notice a huge difference. IMO comparing disk brakes to road brakes is not a like for like exercise; whether road bikes / brakes should go to disk or even hydraulic (as Cavendish has just gone) is a huge subject in itself. Cyclocross bikes have disks though, Kona do a nice variant or two. Personally I would query where you're going to need to be braking like that; disks might make sense on a MTB but to begin with, when riding normal roads on a T3, unless you live in somewhere like say Wales, the Peak District, The Dales etc. then a simple Clarks brake block upgrade would do it. I have only just done this, as I've only recently felt the need after going further afield onto steeper terrain into Wales and the Cotswolds - having gained the ability to go far enough and climb enough to find long steep hills. IMO standard road brakes and road sense / skills should be ample to keep you safe for normal road riding. If you're after flawless gears, then we're in tricky territory with a triple - this will be the same on almost every road bike that has one. Going to a dual / compact front end might be an option (like the T7) but you'll need to be reasonable at hill climbing to make that step, as the triple is fickle and needs tlc but more forgiving of newbies in terms of climbing and fitness. OK, we're all good. You're right - the brakes comparison is probably unfair. No "regular" road bike is fitted with these, so it's not a fair test. Didn't quite get it up to 20kmh in store either, but not far off! I feel I am going to plump for one of old 3/5/5A. Just not sure which. The alternative is a 2-3 year old Defy 3/Trek 1.2. I like the look of the Tribans, I like the warranty/service elements, and the reviews can't be wrong. I really am not into bike brand snobbery at all. I just want best bang for my buck, and much as I love my Giant R8 Hybrid, I want a road bike. Do I cough the extra Β£130 for the superior shifters/mech of the 5, or do I lump the quirky shifters on the red 3 and go nuts with wheel and tyre upgrades? Incidentally, why is the new 5A heavier than they old 5? Is it because rear seat/stay now in aluminium rather than carbon?
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 5, 2013 8:41:32 GMT
Not sure about weight, you could probably have lost the difference in the time you've not been riding your road bike . The thumb shifters are down to personal choice. The new 3a n 5a slot either side of old 3 n 5, if looking at old 5, may as well go new 7 (as long as your hill climbing is up to it). You will want new wheels at some point on 3 n 5, probably the 7. The red 3 is a one off bargain, if you can get one now of course. IMO the 5a is really the new 3 and is taken up a level better for group-set, shifters and saddle - with new wheels it's pretty sorted but it's a chunk more dosh. You may NOT wish to change the gearing, saddle and cranks on it, as they are better than the red, in which case it makes little odds that it costs more, when taking upgrades into consideration but add a rear cassette and a new saddle and the red wins again. The crank upgrades a lot of us have done have wiped out Merlin's supply of bargain Sora type, so that now costs more. You will need to get gear orientated with any choice.
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