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Post by marcwlms on Apr 16, 2015 16:01:02 GMT
nice! ..and very old (it use clamps for cables instead of frame pins, so I think about before '75 ?). IMHO you have two main choices: >leave everything in place and just put single speed transmission, doing a "conservative restoration" >transform it in a single speed beast (no mudgards, special pedals, one little brake, chrome handlebar) IMVHO avoid "the middle way", 'cose she'd lose her soul. Am tempted to do the latter. But keep the parts if I ever want to switch it back.
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Post by joby on Apr 16, 2015 20:13:40 GMT
Out of interest, what gear ratio do you fixie/single-speed owners run? Considering this for my next project (just finished building, and learning to use, a cold smoker so fancy something a bit different now).
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Post by r0b1et on Apr 16, 2015 21:04:38 GMT
marcwlms your link just goes to a google search.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 16, 2015 21:05:35 GMT
Ah sorry. Was trying to link to a pic.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 16, 2015 21:07:17 GMT
Out of interest, what gear ratio do you fixie/single-speed owners run? Considering this for my next project (just finished building, and learning to use, a cold smoker so fancy something a bit different now). Not sure. Try looking at sheldonbrown website some suggestions about ratios in there. Good source of info on bike projects.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 17, 2015 6:08:47 GMT
marcwlms your link just goes to a google search. Something like this is what I am thinking.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2015 8:59:37 GMT
marcwlms your link just goes to a google search. Something like this is what I am thinking. very nice one! the suggestion is to put just the front one, esthetically the rear routing and the double levels are awful, you lose the cleaning effect. IMHO for shure you will not put a 53x12, but a 39x16 or a 42x18 so it won't be a speed machine, one brake is sufficient even in the free position.
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Post by robertsims on Apr 17, 2015 9:54:53 GMT
My singlespeed is 42x16 - if I spin my legs I can maintain 22-23mph and managed over 30mph in sprints but legs flying! Wouldn't want to do long hills on it but standing on short sharp ones is ok (as long as v.short) and longer grinds not fun but for my fairly flat commute I love it
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Post by chas on Apr 17, 2015 11:23:04 GMT
The single front brake is only a good idea/legal for a fixie, if going singlespeed you need 2 brakes (fixed wheel counts as 1). With brakes on the tops only it removes the most comfortable hand position, hoods, if you hold there without brakes your hands can easily slip off (this is very much discouraged on the track). I'd suggest either take off the 'suicide' levers and use the original levers or get nicer ones of a similar type, newer 'aero' levers with cables under the bar tape would just look wrong. While strictly you should use a specific hub threaded to take a lockring for fixed (to prevent the sprocket undoing when you brake) in practice they tighten enough with pedalling not to come undone. You could do with a single chainset, (although I did once use the middle ring of a triple) it would be best to go to 1/8" for the drive as the chain is less likely to come off (not designed to flex like a narrower multispeed one) and may need spacers behind your sprocket/bottom bracket to get perfect chainline.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 17, 2015 12:29:02 GMT
The single front brake is only a good idea/legal for a fixie, if going singlespeed you need 2 brakes (fixed wheel counts as 1). With brakes on the tops only it removes the most comfortable hand position, hoods, if you hold there without brakes your hands can easily slip off (this is very much discouraged on the track). I'd suggest either take off the 'suicide' levers and use the original levers or get nicer ones of a similar type, newer 'aero' levers with cables under the bar tape would just look wrong. While strictly you should use a specific hub threaded to take a lockring for fixed (to prevent the sprocket undoing when you brake) in practice they tighten enough with pedalling not to come undone. You could do with a single chainset, (although I did once use the middle ring of a triple) it would be best to go to 1/8" for the drive as the chain is less likely to come off (not designed to flex like a narrower multispeed one) and may need spacers behind your sprocket/bottom bracket to get perfect chainline. Thanks for this. Definitely going to go with 2 brakes. Plan to use kit to convert existing hub rather than switching to a fixed or flip flip hub/wheel. Trying to keep costs down as much as possible. Was hoping to use one of the front cogs if possible/sizing is ok, will hopefully get to have a closer look at it at the weekend.
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Post by chas on Apr 17, 2015 12:45:01 GMT
You don't need a conversion kit, they're for cassette hubs, yours will have a screw on freewheel which you can replace with a single sprocket or freewheel. You can probably use your inner (42?) ring, it's just down to getting the chainline right.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 17, 2015 17:18:07 GMT
You don't need a conversion kit, they're for cassette hubs, yours will have a screw on freewheel which you can replace with a single sprocket or freewheel. You can probably use your inner (42?) ring, it's just down to getting the chainline right. So will I still need spacers?
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Post by chas on Apr 17, 2015 20:29:10 GMT
Depends on the chain line, you might need one behind your sprocket or to space out your chainset, you won't know 'til you put it together.
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 18, 2015 8:18:12 GMT
Thanks. Hope to have a closer look this weekend if I have the time. Thanks for all yr tips!!!!
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Post by marcwlms on Apr 21, 2015 18:10:27 GMT
Didn't have much chance to look at bike this weekend. Figured out it is a Peugeot from the saddle. and also the paint job was a poor Diy effort. Like the colour so will strip the paint off and respray. Hopefully I can do a better job.
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