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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2014 19:40:50 GMT
Hi everyone! So I got the 3A in the "post" today. It's a handsome bike. Unfortunately it was delivered with the old Decathlon tyres on so the brilliant customer service are going to be sending me out some Hutchinsons. Oddly it also came without a manual or the tools so I have bumbled my way through putting the handlebars on and the pedals. Finally, the rear brake is as tight as tight can be. I am not sure what I need to loosen. The brake lever won't move a millimetre and the brake pads are tight against the wheel. I thought it would be a case of loosening the bolt shown in the photo below and putting a bit of slack on the cable but I cannot for the life of me unscrew it. Is that what I need to do? Is it always this hard to unscrew? Or do I need to do something more complicated? Thanks as always Nick
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2014 19:47:13 GMT
That is certainly the bolt to undo Nick. The black thing on the other side of the brake is a cam that, once you've got the brakes set up correctly, will allow you to slacked off the cable (without undoing the bolt) to get the tyre past the brake blocks.
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 19:47:48 GMT
If you can wind down the tensioning bolt that's just visible in the picture x-45%, y-100%, then do that.
Alternatively, squeeze the front brake hard to pre stretch the cable (you'll struggle to actually stretch it but it might bed things in a bit) - don't squeeze too hard but pretty hard will loosen it up a bit.
If that fails, then the bolt at x-55%, y-50% is your next port of call, undo it, the callipers will spring open; then grip callipers against the wheel, let them loosen a tad (not much) ... then re-tighten.
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Post by bandit3 on Apr 17, 2014 19:49:09 GMT
Is the outer cable sat correctly in the frame lugs ?
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 19:53:02 GMT
Would a simpler question be 'please trace the route of the cable from front lever to calliper and check everything looks like it's seated properly' ?! My inkling is that the cable has been set with the flip adjuster up, then pushed down after the set up process (rather than vice versa, which is the right way to do it).
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2014 20:19:05 GMT
Thanks everyone. All the cables were in the right place. I did loosen the bolt and it made a difference but now I think it is too loose! I shall google a video on adjusting rear brakes...
When the brakes were too close, I noticed a clicking on each rotation of the wheel and have spotted a rough join on the rim. Is that normal. Should I sand it down? Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 21:03:47 GMT
Now you just wind out the vertical barrel adjuster (as long as it doesn't come out more than say 75% you're fine) - this will need to be adjusted regularly as brake blocks wear etc. so best get used to it.
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 21:05:20 GMT
Don't sand rim, the brake blocks will sort it, but keep an eye on it!
Likely to get little bits of metal in the brake blocks that you should pick out with a sharp point and also scrub the blocks clean at times.
Not a biggie to begin with but as distance and elevations increase over time, you'll have to be all over this.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2014 21:13:33 GMT
Thanks Rad, that has gone a long way to sorting it. Unfortunately, having just run through the gears, they are rubbing quite badly in the low gears. Decathlon had warned me that some of the bikes were going out badly set up on the gears and said I should get them adjusted by a shop and they would refund me. Am I right in thinking I don't want to be doing the adjustment myself yet?
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Post by Big Brother on Apr 17, 2014 21:21:40 GMT
Nick. If Decca will refund you, get yourself off down to your local reputable bike shop and get them to sort it for you.
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 21:41:26 GMT
Yep, agree with Red, if the offer is there, then take it.
... although I will qualify, my view on this is that some folks cry wolf on the bad set up, the 'new world' of gears and mech's appears pretty complex at first and much misinterpretation happens ... not a personal dig that, it's just the way it is (I was there also of course).
I realise you're a genuine sort of guy, so go for that offer if it's been put your way from someone who can write the cheque (worth a check to see if this is the case).
All IMHO of course.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2014 22:00:53 GMT
No Rad, I completely get your point but basically the chain is rubbing A LOT of the derailleur cage (I think that's what I am talking about), especially when in the low gears. I mean, you can literally see it clunking against it. That's pretty unambiguous, no? As it happens, the gears change very slickly so there's no problem there. Someone just needs to adjust the position of the derailleur (sorry for non-technical description)
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Post by Radchenister on Apr 17, 2014 22:17:05 GMT
There the issue lies, haven't got a precise hold on what's happening here from that description ... how about a little 20 second vid? The power of the internet n all that stuff! If you're getting the chain to snag the front dΓ©railleur at extremes, then that's going to happen on a triple - not sure if it can be achieved to set it up to avoid this for all gear arrangements as real world riding doesn't really expect dawg ring to the biggest rear or vice versa.
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Post by chiban3 on Apr 18, 2014 7:44:22 GMT
Hi Nick,
Ianmoss put a great vid up about adjusting the low and high screws on the deraillieurs. Was all new and clever stuff to a novice like me, but took a lot of chain noise/rubbing away for me. Will try to find the thread now.
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Post by chiban3 on Apr 18, 2014 7:49:08 GMT
Search for "Rear Deraillieur" thread in Triban Technical>gears and chain
May be a useful step.
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