brianevesham
Domestique
A short ride is better than no ride.
Posts: 503
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Post by brianevesham on Mar 15, 2014 11:19:34 GMT
Took my back wheel out for the first time yesterday, luckily it was on a work stand as it was a little snug. The cruds didn't get in the way at all which did surprise me. So the original tyres and tubes lasted about 18 months puncture free!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2014 13:44:31 GMT
Took my back wheel out for the first time yesterday, luckily it was on a work stand as it was a little snug. The cruds didn't get in the way at all which did surprise me. So the original tyres and tubes lasted about 18 months P******* free! The original tyres were a funny thing, I could ride along a path that looked clean and get a puncture from a tiny tiny bit of glass, but ride through a load of smashed glass without getting a puncture.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2014 15:06:10 GMT
Upside down on a grass verge or with clothing under vitals when repairing a P******* is OK ! I contravened this rule on my first commute when my chain came off due to terrible gear change technique. Upside down repair on the pavement.. Result scratched hood/gear thingy. Annoys me every time I get on my bike!
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Post by oldtimer on Mar 15, 2014 20:58:11 GMT
......... and i thought it was just me! Why has it taken you b*****s so long to fess up!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by Rocket on Mar 15, 2014 21:11:17 GMT
Bike upside down on grass or something protective, smallest cog on the cassette, air out of the tyre, skewer out of the spindle, open the brake quick release. Pinch the tyre together to help it past the brake blocks and out it comes. The flat tyre allows you to press it against the bar between the chainstays to give the required clearance.
If you are doing this on the road then the air will already be out. If you are at home then you have the luxury of a track pump to re-inflate the tyre.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 14:30:26 GMT
Apologies for bumping an old thread but I am so glad to have found this while searching. It has cheered me up quite considerably after two sessions struggling with the rear wheel of my 500SE.
First tried removal/replacement yesterday while giving the bike a wash on the lawn. Off wasn't too difficult but on was a nightmare. Somehow managed to do it just as I was about to give up.
Thought I'd try today with the bike on its wall hanger. YouTube videos aplenty on my phone showing all sorts of Americans with bad haircuts pinging wheels hither and thither with plenty of satisfying clunky noises. Cut to me getting rapidly more and more covered with BTWIN chain lube while reciting lists of words that would make my mother disown me. Once again, when I thought all was lost it suddenly fell into place.
What I noticed was (and as mentioned previously) that the MicroSHIFT mech is mounted closer to the drop-outs than on all the bikes on the videos I watched. Hence it fouls the nut of the wheel unless it approaches from exactly the correct angle. Unfortunately, from what I can tell, the angle that looks logical to put the wheel into isn't achievable as the tyre fouls the frame at the bottom of the seat tube. The derailleur and jockeys also need much more pulling out of the way than in the vids I watched and even then there's only just enough room to squeeze the cassette in place.
So thankfully I'm not a schmoe just because I found it so difficult. However I now find that my rear brakes need the quick release completely off to let the wheel spin and my chain ends up over my pedal if I try a firm shift to the big ring while the bike on the wall-mount. Neither of these things is good and both are likely to be my own fault, so I'll be wheeling it up to LBS tomorrow.
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Post by robertsims on Nov 10, 2014 14:40:38 GMT
Easiest way is to remove the QR skewer before put wheel back in, then once wheel back in place just put QR skewer back in - takes 10 secs and makes job v. easy....you shouldn't have to but it makes life easier!
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Post by chas on Nov 10, 2014 14:59:12 GMT
It's easy to knock the brake off centre changing a wheel, or put your wheel in askew on a stand. Put the bike on the floor and undo the QR, wiggle the wheel while pushing down on the seat to ensure it's fully in the dropouts and tighten. If the brake is still rubbing simply pull it central by hand. Your front mech shouldn't have been affected but sounds like 1/4 turn of the outer stop is all it needs.
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Post by beatnik69 on Nov 10, 2014 15:37:07 GMT
My two pieces of advice. Don't forget to tun the little lever on your brakes to widen the calipers and gove more room to remove the wheel. Go to your local poundshop and buy a box of latex gloves. A pair can even be rolled up and stuck in a pocket or saddlebag when you go out. (saying this I have a box in the house but keep forgetting to take a pair with me )
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 15:43:37 GMT
I did use that little lever - it's the one I described as the "quick release" and I need it full off all the time now! As for latex gloves, I have loads pilfered from my Nan's retirement home. Considering the amount she pays to be there we're owed a couple of freebies. Very handy for when I'm doing stuff to my VW Camper.
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