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Post by Whitestar1 on Aug 12, 2013 9:29:03 GMT
Funny this one. I noticed just how well my Mavic Aksiums rolled compared to the other bikes I have been riding with in sportives. Been in two so far (26 and 62 miles) and have three more to go. They do ride better, smother but are nosier than the original wheels that came with the bike, actually more than some of the other bikes I have been riding with.
The other thing I noticed was that I wasn't putting that much effort into my pedal stroke as was some people I have been with. Now is that physical fitness or the fact that my wheels rolled more effortless thereby reducing the energy/pedal stroke wattage needed to maintain/generate sufficient speed to keep up with mate? hmm, something to discuss and think about. I wonder new improved wheel would make this equation more efficient? or more exercise on the core muscle group? Man the new wheel would make Whitney so much sexier!!!
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 12, 2013 9:44:24 GMT
Lighter wheels, tyres, inners and efficient bearings will of course take less watts, no discussion necessary - simples. Rolling resistance and elements with spinning mass/speed are major factors in cycling, the above components obviously having a fair chunk of that cake on the overall quota on the bike itself, couple that with set up position and clothing and you've covered the easy gains in one swoop. Tyre pressure is another one to watch. Then we get onto rider characteristics in parallel, no point in buying a carbon seatpost if not addressed the above and losing a few kilos off the engine is in order.
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 12, 2013 10:00:42 GMT
I am of course assuming the pedals and shoes are a no brainer.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2013 10:03:30 GMT
What's so bad about stock weels, the rims, the hubs, or the complete weel?
Mine are 650c so they aren't that easy to find aftermarket, will a hub replacement make such a big difference or stock rims are not worth it?
Must admit they seem fine to me by now and alredy changed my pedals to 105 cliples and SPD-SL shoes as well as Ultegra brake pads as stock ones were complete rubbish, not enough even for my 50kg...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2013 10:53:01 GMT
Lighter wheels, tyres, inners and efficient bearings will of course take less watts, no discussion necessary - simples. Rolling resistance and elements with spinning mass/speed are major factors in cycling, the above components obviously having a fair chunk of that cake on the overall quota on the bike itself, couple that with set up position and clothing and you've covered the easy gains in one swoop. Tyre pressure is another one to watch. Then we get onto rider characteristics in parallel, no point in buying a carbon seatpost if not addressed the above and losing a few kilos off the engine is in order. Tell me this is in the TOC rule book! Maybe even rule #1 I know a few of us keep banging on about it but what could be more important than starting with the engine.
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 12, 2013 11:09:10 GMT
The guys out yesterday are all a case in point, slight variances but all coming at it from roughly the same angle.
BA has pushed his distances so much he can ride relentlessly for hours on end at good pace - he's upgraded his bike very nicely but this went hand in hand with the commitment to the miles and improvements in fitness.
Rob has prioritised keeping it simple and getting fitter - riding longer and more often for his charity ride; he may upgrade at some point but it's not his priority and demonstrates that it is mind and fitness over matter.
Trotter has gone for the T5a, as I often advise for someone who is going to get into it properly over the more cost effective T3a; this is because he's committed properly to getting fit and now he has got fit, climbing hills like a goat - during that process he's changed to cost effective Shimano wheels, he's already got the Sora on the T5a the same as many of us have added to the T3 and a little spark of higher end stuff to embellish the bike with a nice Selle Italia and Conti GP4000s (25) tyres to suit his rural roads and add comfort - done through assessing what's appropriate during progression.
Phred has set his T3 up very nicely and rides what he likes to ride - he's into the engineering and getting the bike suited to his own preferences (as am I).
All good philosophies that add to the riding experience and motivation to keep doing it but not done for style over substance.
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Post by iggypop37 on Aug 12, 2013 20:07:34 GMT
more of a general question this, but here goes, I have just about decided on a 3 or a 3a, i have always used classic ten speed bikes, but just taking a triban around my local store frankly blew me away.
One thing i can't do without is a decent mirror (not a problem on a classic 10/12 speed) any comments anyone on what I can use
TIA
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 12, 2013 20:53:04 GMT
If you must, then one I saw a while ago looks practical: www.bike-eye.com/There are bar end ones but the above looks more flexible and can be taken off easily, if out in the sticks, could see the sense for occasional jaunts in urban areas and on busy roads but would want to remove it most of the time in the country. If you're urban riding a lot, begs the question if a road bike is the most practical choice in the first place.
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Post by iggypop37 on Aug 12, 2013 22:52:30 GMT
it would be an all round bike - i don't like bikes which don't have drops for road/tarmac use - so things like commuting as well as weekend blasts in the countryside and travelling around town to visit people etc.
I find a decent mirror does give me a greater sense of security
can't believe how much the technology has come on in 25/30 years.
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 13, 2013 8:01:39 GMT
I've made about 5 fully urban trips on the Triban, several suburban ones on busy roads, majority of miles are on open roads.
Personally, I feel a road bike used for visiting people in an urban area, is not the right choice of bike. Similarly, if the commute is predominantly urban/suburban. You intensify all the impracticalities and the positives are rarely taken advantage of.
The tyres, wheels and forks will require you to work hard avoiding pot holes etc., whilst dodging cars from a cumbersome, committed, forward prone position.
The bike will be over geared for the majority of situations, rarely allowing you to open it up - riding on the drops will require you to be shoulders down, head and neck stretched forward for if/when you need to brake hard, this is likely to be often in town, particularly if you try to ride at pace.
If you stay on the hoods (like many do, even the pros when on the majority of their rides), then you run the risk of not being able to brake hard enough and bumping into things regularly - it won't take much to damage the forks.
You say 'it would be an all round bike', which strikes me as wishful thinking, when in fact it will just be an overly compromised solution for a large section of the use you describe.
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Post by ukdaws on Aug 13, 2013 10:07:58 GMT
I've made about 5 fully urban trips on the Triban, several suburban ones on busy roads, majority of miles are on open roads. Personally, I feel a road bike used for visiting people in an urban area, is not the right choice of bike. Similarly, if the commute is predominantly urban/suburban. You intensify all the impracticalities and the positives are rarely taken advantage of. The tyres, wheels and forks will require you to work hard avoiding pot holes etc., whilst dodging cars from a cumbersome, committed, forward prone position. The bike will be over geared for the majority of situations, rarely allowing you to open it up - riding on the drops will require you to be shoulders down, head and neck stretched forward for if/when you need to brake hard, this is likely to be often in town, particularly if you try to ride at pace. If you stay on the hoods (like many do, even the pros when on the majority of their rides), then you run the risk of not being able to brake hard enough and bumping into things regularly - it won't take much to damage the forks. You say 'it would be an all round bike', which strikes me as wishful thinking, when in fact it will just be an overly compromised solution for a large section of the use you describe. Totally agree with above quote..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2013 10:54:17 GMT
Hi folks I got my Triban 3 last week in white. I am a complete newbie when it comes to cycling. My main concern at the moment is punctures I live in a new development and roads aren't complete so lot of gravel and stones etc.
A friend told me to look into Schwalbe Durano Plus as an upgrade to the stock tyres and also fit a Schwalbe inner tube. Has anyone any opinion on these as I am new to the whole scene. I would like to protect against punctures as a main priority though for first upgrade.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2013 11:10:42 GMT
Welcome buddy. Continental Ultra Gatorskin are used widely on this board. I'm still using the stock Hutchinson Nitros so not sure how good the Gatorskins are.
Just so you know, there is no tyre which will give you full protection and if the roads are as bad as yo say they are, I think you should still be prepared for fixing/replacing at the roadside. Good tyre levers, puncture kit and spare inner tubes. A decent pump/Co2 is also a must of course.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2013 11:14:58 GMT
Thanks cyraxdotnet I'll look into those recommendations.
I am sure I am going to hit a puncture eventually so I've been watching some YouTube videos on how to fix / replace inner tube. Tell me then what is a decent pump to have fixed to the bike encase of such repairs?
I got myself a bag for under the saddle which I plan to fill with multitool and the tyre levels etc you mention.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2013 12:22:10 GMT
Did a lot of thinking about this one, got some good advice off some people on here too. I was ready to jump in and buy allsorts but i think initially, pedals and shoes plus some water bottles and cages. Maybe a wee saddle bag on top of that. Gonna get used to the bike and take it from there.
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