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Post by Whitestar1 on May 31, 2013 22:54:24 GMT
sure i saw this on the btwin webby, they had videos of the oxylene awards have you heard what they say at the end. Now if im corrct with what decathlon do, if you buy a bike with the lock. you sign a contract. and if you bring the lock back, CUT, with the record off the police saying it was stolen. Then they'll give you your bike back FREE. Now this is news to me. Which lock is it?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2013 21:33:04 GMT
its called the HardLock
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2013 22:06:33 GMT
Isn't it usual practice to increase the spec on a newer model? Whether that be bikes, cars, cameras, you name it. Triban don't seem to be playing the game at all. If you notice carefully though, They have. They've done it through the frame spec rather than the names. T3 now with sora groupset - £429.99 (T5a) T5 now with tigra groupset - £599.99 (T7) FC3, now in white and better quality in frame and carbon spec - £1099.99 (FC5) With all due respect, Dan, you're missing my point and not comparing like with like. What you're illustrating here is indeed an increase in spec, but it's on the next model up, which comes with a considerable price difference. While at the same time, the 3 line loses the carbon fork, a fundamental component in the attraction to that model line in the first place. The new T5A is now similar to a T3 with the addition of a Sora groupset but also, more importantly with a very high relative price increase of 43%. It's no longer an even and comparable contest with a £300 bike. In its own right, it's a fantastic spec at a still fantastic price, relative to what else is available from other manufacturers, but it's not the T3 model line any more and it's not £300, it's a T5A costing £430. Oh, and it's not red In fact, if it was any colour other than the grey it is (I've just got a thing about grey, bikes or anything else for that matter) I'd be owning one right now, despite wanting a red T3 so desperately. The point I was making was that a newer model in the same range takes everything that any given model already had, and improves on it for a similar price, usually within 10%, up or down, or maybe even lower as often happens as features trickle down from the higher classes. Hope I've made my point better than last time.
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Post by stevo on Jun 20, 2013 14:20:33 GMT
Thanks alot arny. In your opinion do you think t5 black is worth the extra £130 over the t3 red? Well I'll put it short for you. T3 in general = £300 A set of shimano Sora 3500 Shifters (2013) = £144 Total = £444 I don't get how your logic works here? You seem to be totally discounting the £103.00 value of the 2300 shifters (a difference of about £40. And doesn't the original T3 come with sora front mech as standard?
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Post by Radchenister on Jun 20, 2013 15:45:54 GMT
You're right stevo, Arny is not good at maths ! Although to be fair, he's assuming if you wanted the 9 speed then that's the upgrade costs straight, although he's missed the rear cassette and other dérailleur parts, so I really can't see where he's coming from. So in reality you can't really compare it like that, unless someone specifically says I want a 9 speed (at rear) bike and are considering the T5a or the T3Red with an upgrade - which nobody has said of course and Arny hasn't costed it correctly anyway. However, lets get onto some pluses and play with some numbers like Arny has; the gearing is better for me personally on the T5a and the group set is nice, I/you/we might even like the SKY-esque styling ... so if I/you/we was at point of buying, it's a tough call ... hang on though, I only know this with hindsight for my own needs in reality; I do/did know I would want better wheels at some point on both options ... I consider this a priority over the 9 speed issue. I've also changed the saddle but got one cheap as chips on eBay, so that's not a big issue either for me - I do far prefer the look / style of the new saddle type over the old though and have an inkling I could have stuck with it, if buying a T5a now (but I/you/we won't/wouldn't actually know this for certain until riding 30+ miles). Of course I'm not buying now though, so can't really do a like or like on any of this, we're just playing with the ideas; over time when settling into things, I've concluded that fitting an SRAM 11-28 cassette definitely works for me on the Red T3, similarly new wheels and a few other things have also proven themselves in my instance (I'll focus on the wheels and cassette and leave other things out in any calc's, as they aren't really necessary for real world improvements IMO - most people will change tyres, chain, peddles and bar tape etc anyway). Interestingly, my Mavics and SRAM Cassette cost £135 when added together (I got some bargains), so £300 + £135 = £435; with that I'm on better wheels but have 1 less cog to play with, the shifter types don't really effect me although it would be nice to have the T5a ones, it's not a necessity - can't see that it's an issue for me personally, the gearing is now a good spread for me and I've got the wheels I like on as well at roughly the same price as the T5a - perfectly happy with that spend at just £5 over the standard cost of the new alternative. I say this about the wheels because despite trying to like them, the standard wheels just don't cut it for me, they flex too much when out the saddle (for the big lads and lasses) so can't be ridden as well when your climbing technique improves - not an issue if you're a skinny fella or sit down all the time but I don't think that's a realistic view if you intend to improve. Many believe that changing wheels is an inevitability if you want to put the bike where it really wants to be in technical terms so I think you do need to think about that additional cost in the mix. Sorry to be deliberately obtuse, just attempting to show how it's not really a black and white issue.
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Post by stevo on Jun 20, 2013 15:55:35 GMT
Radchenister, I agree, I feel that a better set of wheels and tyres far outweigh an extra cog and sora levers. I have put a san marco saddle, Shimano 501 wheels and some Michelin lithion tyres, with the discounts I got, the bike sets me back a shade under 400 quid. I reckon that's a bargain! ;-)
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Post by Radchenister on Jun 20, 2013 16:10:05 GMT
Don't think the tyres are that much of an issue as you will need to change them at some point being a consumable and the originals aren't terrible, so not included that in the thoughts above but some people might like to as a priority in their own choices of course. I hope this is helpful for everyone and of course helps Arny as well. Arny sometimes forgets whether he's in owner mode or sales mode - I am squarely in the owners' camp every time!
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jun 20, 2013 16:39:28 GMT
short answer is yes its worth it, its only 300 quid so it hasnt got a carbon fork, big deal, its got a steel raked fork which does exactly the same job as a carbon fork its just that the steel fork will last longer, esp if there is a crash i wouldnt worry too much about gruppos, you are presumably a newbie to road bikes therefore the finer intracacies of shifting etc arent of major concern, and if you get the bug its a great place to start upgrading at relatively little cost, the more expensive the bike to begin with the more your upgrades will cost and if you do get that bug you WILL want to upgrade arny is right though the t5 is a better option as a bike, but if you are a newbie the 3a will be fine and you wont notice the difference between carbon and steel and btw - look at the owners manual for btwin bikes, when it comes to road bikes they reccomend a rider/bike ensemble to wigh no more than 120kg, if you are heavier, you will want the steel fork
steel is on its way back!
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Post by stevo on Jun 20, 2013 18:06:07 GMT
Zoltansocrates, i'm afraid that I disagree entirely with your thoughts on Carbon v Steel Forks. I have experienced both, and the difference in steering feel and ride is immense, as is the weight, and from an aesthetic point of view. But hey, that is just my opinion
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jun 20, 2013 18:49:31 GMT
Some of Reynolds new tubing is stupid light, carbon needs to watch its back But I does look cooler than steel I think a top end steel fork would surprise you though
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2013 19:17:29 GMT
zoltansocrates - So in short you would recommend the new T3 and its (almost) as good as the previous red one and would stack up well against bikes from other brands in this price bracket?
I must admit I liked the look of the new T3 and the Microshift levers looked much easier to use in the drop position - I just had a hang up on the forks not being carbon but perhaps I'm thinking too much about it and taking note of comments on here. Being new to road biking it sounds like I maybe making too much of it!?
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Post by stevo on Jun 20, 2013 19:32:35 GMT
Nickwolves, Yes, but the Carrera TDF is now the same price at Halfords and pretty much the same spec as the white T3. You may want to check out some Alpina carbon forks from Ribble, I had some on a previous bike and thought they were good value.
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Post by zoltansocrates on Jun 20, 2013 20:07:46 GMT
zoltansocrates - So in short you would recommend the new T3 and its (almost) as good as the previous red one and would stack up well against bikes from other brands in this price bracket? I must admit I liked the look of the new T3 and the Microshift levers looked much easier to use in the drop position - I just had a hang up on the forks not being carbon but perhaps I'm thinking too much about it and taking note of comments on here. Being new to road biking it sounds like I maybe making too much of it!? stevo has it there, if you get the new 3a and use the thing regularly you will start to find the bits and bobs that you want to sort out, normally wheels, seats, pedals BUT if you are running a steel for and decide sod it i want carbon then you whip yourself back to decathlon and get them to ordr you a t5 white carbon fork to match your bike, decathlon DO sell the forks separately and i nearly bought one for my other bike before i got the seven, ,my other bike currently runs a steel fork with NO rake and man its a jittery beast, fast and solid but you DO bounce, so thats my turbo bike BUT if i want to use it on the road i think decathlon were asking 58 quid the last time i enquired you could go chasing the reds, but frankly as they become harder to find youll get frustrated and end up buying that carrera - and that just would not do!
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Post by Radchenister on Jun 21, 2013 10:01:38 GMT
Just a little addition, I have no problem with the Red T3 levers and thumb buttons, I ride on the hoods most of the time and when on the drops, it's usually on an even pace level section where I'm in the gear I need already; only occasionally do I need to shift arms back on top to change the rear gears up and when I do I just bend the forearms and stay in the same tuck. There is of course the philosophy that with the style of say Cancellara's riding (and even sprinting) on the hoods (new rule aside ), that this is a fine thing to do and can even be more aerodynamic as less flat arm surface is aimed at the wind ... not really a consideration for your leisure rider though but you get my point. All that aside, I am looking at the T3a for my son, the levers appear easier for a little hand to deal with and if anything, the steel forks may be preferable to the fragile carbon option. Kids do daft things like leaning bikes on wobbly things which results in dents and scrapes. My son has been off his MTB about 5 times in the year we've been doing it seriously, two of those were proper full on crashes - so something robust would suit as a starter bike. Not saying adults will have as many mishaps but I think the idea of just getting on with it and upgrading over time is wise - people pay the cost of the bike for a couple of days at a health spa, moping about in hot tubs and eating nothing but Miso Soup; 3 months riding a T3a 2 or 3 times a week would be far better health option for them. Oh and a new 43 is out in August for the young ones !
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2013 10:43:10 GMT
RE; re T3 levers Assuming you are in the big chainring and wanting to go to the outer cogs on the cassette ,I find that if you have your hands in the 'crook' of the drops you can shift to higher gears with your right thumb. When you are in top gear you can drop your hands to 'full' drops and away you go. Changing back down to the larger cogs whilst on the drops, now that's a different matter. Usually by then though I'm ready to resume riding on the hoods. maybe i just have extra long thumbs?
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