Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2014 20:25:08 GMT
Do you have a split link for removing your chain or do you use a link extractor?
Needles
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 20:46:45 GMT
Split link, no hassles, second SRAM chain on the bike. They don't stretch, they just get loose in terms of lateral movement - I probably could have ridden the last chain a lot longer but when the last one looked a bit tarnished in places and the inner roller began to drop out the end of the chain when the split link is taken off, I took it as a sign to change.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 20:50:16 GMT
If I was on more expensive 10 or 11 speed I'd likely think a bit differently but the PC850 or PC870 chains are great vfm so it's not a big deal to change.
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Post by ukdaws on Mar 2, 2014 21:15:06 GMT
I clean my bike with baby wipes,in the week a quick wipe over if commuting and at the weekend i remove the wheels and give the cassette and spokes a good clean. I remove the chain every few weeks if its been dry to clean and re lube. If its been wet the chain gets cleaned every weekend as it seems to collect grit! Also if it has been wet I remove and clean the brake blocks as they collect debris also. I just cant seem to get myself to throw a bucket of water over her! I also use compressed air to clean her off sometimes.
My bike is running as good if not better than new (sorted the wheel bearings) and shifts and brakes perfectly. My Mrs think's I am bonkers but I like it to be right!
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Post by ukdaws on Mar 2, 2014 21:23:50 GMT
Just reassembled and lubed the chain here, this chain went on the bike mid November and has done well covering perhaps 1000 kms through a very wet winter; the cassette is perhaps 12 months old now and only some minor cosmetic signs of wear in the valleys, having covered near to 5000 kms, still good for a fair while yet - that's why I keep it clean : I thought my cassette was clean Radchenister!!! well blingy
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 21:26:17 GMT
Yep similar regime to yours actually, although I will get it wet as there's nothing unusual there but I don't have compressed air - very fancy! Tonight, as well as the chain, I've been around the pedals, brakes and mech's etc. with a baby wipe and done bits of frame more accessible when wheels are out - then dripped some cycle oil into the joints, scrubbed the wheels and cassette, had a good go at the rims with a washing up pad - takes perhaps 20 minutes now, I've got quicker over the months.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 21:27:40 GMT
...oh, except there's no 'if it's wet' over here this year !
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2014 21:27:41 GMT
Guys the pics have been a huge help, glad I posted this as it's probably saved me hours or days in the long run!
What's the right type of lube to be using to minimise build up? Dry lube?
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 21:31:58 GMT
Recently we've had someone suggest GT85, ahem - go with that if you like; personally, in winter I prefer 'Finish Line Wet' but each to his own.
I've got some 'Dynamic' lube for summer - used TF2+ Dry last summer, will try this side by side and see which I prefer.
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Post by ukdaws on Mar 2, 2014 21:57:31 GMT
The only thing going for gt85 is that it has PTFE in it,it is far to thin for my liking and anything i can spray on electrical contacts can not be ok for a chain! or can it!! I really dont think it is that important what lube you use as long as the chain gets cleaned an relubed on regular intervals as the amount of grit that is left in the bottom of my cleaning tank (old pickle jar!)is astounding, just think how noisy the brakes are in the wet with grit so the chain is the same imho. so my priority is no grinding compound and clean lubrication.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 22:05:42 GMT
True, although balancing act between having some lube (things are rattly if not), it washing out quickly in wet conditions, how much grit and gunk collected and how black things get etc. - someone could draw a Venn diagram if they felt like it ... I just use what feels right and some things have not worked well for me at all ... 'TF2 Extreme' being an absolute nightmare ... sticky gunk, that can string out like hot Mozzarella and considering it's properties, also somehow sprays black dots everywhere as well.
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Post by ukdaws on Mar 2, 2014 22:30:08 GMT
True, although balancing act between having some lube (things are rattly if not), it washing out quickly in wet conditions, how much grit and gunk collected and how black things get etc. - someone could draw a Venn diagram if they felt like it ... I just use what feels right and some things have not worked well for me at all ... 'TF2 Extreme' being an absolute nightmare ... sticky gunk, that can string out like hot Mozzarella and considering it's properties, also somehow sprays black dots everywhere as well. I was trying to say make of lube/type of lube are not important its that you lube it (after cleaning). I should have said i dont class a gt85 type oil acceptable or on the other end of the scale a stringy (overly sticky) oil acceptable. I use a wet spray from a large french supermarket and it is well cheap and seems to do the job perfectly well for my needs.
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richc
Peloton Rider
Posts: 172
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Post by richc on Mar 2, 2014 22:31:49 GMT
Up to you buddy, I like them to run without any noise, as well as possible but they'll still run when dirty of course - there is a particularly nasty fine brown gunk in the vale here, that gets in things when it's wet and that does all sorts of damage, so I like to keep on top of it; personal choice, you could just ride 'em and throw 'em away, you can get through at least 3 before catching up with a carbon owner ! Don't get me wrong, I do love the T3 to bits and the fact it has got me into cycling but the point of getting a Β£300 bike is that I won't be too precious about it and that includes it sitting in the garage for weeks on end when I can't ride it. It runs smooth and quiet without any major TLC, I guess being low end spec it is quite robust (could be the reason all those bikes with 105 and Ultras are so shiney), true the gear changes down both cogs are clunky but I guess thats the other side to robust. In darkest Wiltshire we have are own version of a particularly nasty brown gunk, it comes out the back of cows but maybe its not so damaging as the stuff from your way Some ride um, some shine um & some do both
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 22:40:36 GMT
Yep, the cleaning regime is the yin to the yang or the lube.
Alos depends what people consider is clean or quiet - mine was mucky yesterday from riding through a few streams that had come out their banks and also run off coming in long trickles down the hills into the valleys around the Cotswolds, about as bad as it gets in lubing / cleaning terms, like spraying gritty gunk at the bottom of the bike; no lube will fare all that well in those conditions.
I think to advise the punters solidly, for rural UK riding, a bottle of well reviewed 'wet' for winter and similarly well reviewed 'dry' for better days is the way to think. I will use dry in winter if the roads are dry and there's not much standing water - just hasn't happened much this year.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 2, 2014 22:53:08 GMT
richc - you do what you like as I said. I can clean the bike to a decent level within 5 or 6 minutes even when it's filthy and would probably just do that during the week, giving it a decent clean in 20 mins on the weekend; if your drive train looks like mine it's not so clunky . I do of course have Sora now and 105 brake callipers, fresh cables, fresh brake blocks etc - running on Aksiums all winter. I went through last winter being less fussy but this winter my mileage is higher and I can tell the difference between a drive train that's gone 3 or 4 trips without a good clean and keeping on top of it makes for a pleasing ride. The bike wear is more when it's dirty - this is noticeable and that's why I upped the regime. Might be a bit OTT for some but 35 minutes a week doesn't strike me as much and far less frustrating than a bike that's suffering from lack of TLC (my MTB for example). A well tweaked T3 is up there with a Β£1000 bike so money's not really the issue. Give me a well maintained T3 over a badly maintained Β£1K branded bike any day.
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