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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2014 15:00:07 GMT
Hi guys im new round here, after a bit of help/advice. im fairly new to road cycling but I have caught the bug. I bought my red triban 3 in July last year and I'm now wanting to upgrade it. i recently bought the shimano 501 wheels after reading reviews on this forum, now I want to upgrade the group set. i have little knowledge about bikes but I know that I want a double group set now as I never use the lowest gear. I have my eye on shimano 105 Here, is this compatible as it is with the triban 3? Also it's price is Β£299 plus a 10% off code so only Β£270, is this a good price for this as I have never really looked into buying a group set so wouldn't know when something is a good deal. andy help would be great! Cheers
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 15:05:20 GMT
Yep, as good as it gets.
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Post by ianmoss on Mar 24, 2014 15:07:09 GMT
Just buy that NOW.
you will just need a 34.9mm band adaptor for the braze on type front derailleur, the shop might give you a different FD if you ask.
Go for it.
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Post by ianmoss on Mar 24, 2014 15:07:32 GMT
Wish I had 300 quid spare right now...
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 15:07:57 GMT
Are you on a T3a or red T3?
A 105 groupset on a T3a would ask for a new set of carbon forks as well of course as little point having those on and a budget racing groupset on - incompatible set up in logic terms to my mind.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 15:09:26 GMT
I also think you need to be clear on what you mean by never using the small gear - if you're riding flats normally but do plan to go up monster hills at some point, then that's a different story.
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Post by ianmoss on Mar 24, 2014 15:09:39 GMT
It's Red, Rad...
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 15:10:35 GMT
Speed reading - evident that I should be working and not on here!
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 15:12:20 GMT
I also tend to answer these questions generally at times of course - so worth saying anyway !
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Post by ianmoss on Mar 24, 2014 15:13:20 GMT
I also think you need to be clear on what you mean by never using the small gear - if you're riding flats normally but do plan to go up monster hills at some point, then that's a different story. I agree, if you have no plans of hitting the hills, then go for the 5700 group which is 53/39. Give you more power output along the flats. I do think, Radchenister will probably agree, that having a compact and a wide range 10spd cassette will see you covered for most terrain.
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Post by ianmoss on Mar 24, 2014 15:17:02 GMT
I think by posting that on here, you are gonna have to be quick to order before 'The Trabanists' buy them all up!!!
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 16:29:29 GMT
I also think you need to be clear on what you mean by never using the small gear - if you're riding flats normally but do plan to go up monster hills at some point, then that's a different story. I agree, if you have no plans of hitting the hills, then go for the 5700 group which is 53/39. Give you more power output along the flats. I do think, Radchenister will probably agree, that having a compact and a wide range 10spd cassette will see you covered for most terrain. It'll be the usual 'show me your Strava' before I believe someone needs a full monty double crankset whilst also saying they're just getting into road cycling; possible, unusual - better be an already pretty fit and light but powerful person to hack it. On a compact with the 50/34 front and 11-25 available at the rear, that's a fairly big gear set - you need declines to make it really spin and if you've got those, then you've got inclines to push up as well ... the area better be pretty flat generally though, as if you hit even moderate hills, you'll have to push hard - perhaps OK for short hour blasts but go riding for long ones that undulate and it'll be tough at times.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2014 17:23:22 GMT
Cheers for the help guys! You've convinced me to definitely get one. Sorry to be a pain but what do the numbers e.g 39/53 actually refer to?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2014 17:51:37 GMT
Cheers for the help guys! You've convinced me to definitely get one. Sorry to be a pain but what do the numbers e.g 39/53 actually refer to? Short answer: Number of teeth on the sprockets. Long answer: 53/39 means that the smallest cog (or "granny ring") on the chainset has 39 teeth, and the largest has 53. This is what's known as a "classic double". The one you've linked is a 50/34 "Compact", which is far more suited to actual human riders who might have to ride up a hill every so often. On the rear, you'll see cassettes (that's groups of sprockets) denoted as, for example, "11-25T". That means that the smallest cog has 11 teeth and the largest has 25, with the sprockets sandwiched between them increasing gradually in teeth (the more sprockets you have in total, the more gradual the transition, meaning less of a shock to your cadence when you change gear). For climbing hills, you need to look at the ratio between the smallest cog on the middle and the largest cog on the rear. If you had a standard Double and an 11-25 cassette, your smallest ratio would be 1.56 (39/25)... and let me say, rather you than me! If, however, you had a compact on the middle, your ratio would be 1.36 (34/25) which would allow most people to get up most hills. If, on the other hand, you can get a 11-28 or even 11-30 cassette on the rear (which some of the new derailleurs support) then you'd be fine to go with a man-sized Double. Your top speed down hills, at a ratio of 4.81:1, would cause sonic booms. Personally, being a bit of a chubber, I started with a 12-26T 9sp and found it not to be enough, so have switched to a 12-27, and you wouldn't believe the difference that one extra tooth makes. HTH. By the way, what's the 10% off code at JE James? That's a stonking deal, I'm very tempted...
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 24, 2014 18:01:40 GMT
I'm on compact 12-30, I do have some serious gradients to get up at times, I was heavier at start up and needed the low gears; I'm getting lighter but still like the comfort of knowing I can sit and spin up a really steep one if tired ... if not tired I could push bigger cogs but this limits the practical range of your rides if intending to stay comfortable on them as hitting big hills at distance would be a shocker with insufficient gears on the bottom.
If I was less scenery / mountain inclined, I could go harder but being a bit of an explorer, I like to know I can get up barn doors if I feel the urge - it's rare to find anything over 25% - 30% in the UK (real steep usually doesn't hang around for long but does happen at peaks) - you can get up that with the lowest gears. If I got into TTing on the levels around here I might then look at the bigger gears but not really practical for normal riding and exploring / touring.
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