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Post by Radchenister on Mar 14, 2014 12:23:17 GMT
My thoughts exactly @billyadam, don't be a crazy fool ' @dancelikelance ' , got no time for jibba jabba on this thread, get on with it and report back, to quote a well know character 'I want you to be my role model, someone I can look up to when the purple wobblies start to wobble'!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 17:12:56 GMT
@dancelikelance I'm updating the Tech section with the weights for frame and forks you have stated. Can you tell me the frame size and the steerer tube length please. Thanks in advance. i have a 57cm frame , i'll have to check the steerer tube as i've reassembled the bike for a club run tommorow. But when i re-weighed the fork it came in at 530g plus minus a bit for other people models. Regrarding my build, i rethinking it after the response i got, many more experienced than myself have proposed concerns. Maybe i'll have to put it aside until after my GCSE's giving me more time to think over the build properly as i threw this thread together in a night. However having sold my shares i feel obliged to complete it ( thats at least what i told my parents) Thanks for the help guys its appreciated. keep your propositions coming! BTW i just got the best deal ever! two powermeters for $100 and $30 shipping link : www.ebay.com/itm/ibike-Pro-Power-Meters-2-/221391947722?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338bfd07caIm not looking to keep it as its the older version and isn't as accurate i've heard. Looking to get the ibike newton 2013
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 17:41:53 GMT
I think this is nuts but I'd love to see it.
By the way I don't think those 'power meters' are what you think they are...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 17:43:31 GMT
Going to be interesting.
Bit of advice though would be that, yes a light and cheap saddle might appeal initially but I'd hedge my bets that you would soon be having to spend money on a better, more appropriate comfortable one.
Same goes with handlebars. I went through 3 different ones till I found one with drops that were comfortable.
Also all the marginal savings in weight would not serve you as well as a pair of higher end wheels and tyres.
Regarding the seat post. Cut off what you do not need off of the stock one. Will weigh less than that carbon one then probably.
Are the expensive derailleurs not a waste of money better spent on wheels?
Cheaper Shimano bottom bracket works and lasts just the same doesn't it?
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Post by captslog on Mar 14, 2014 18:40:27 GMT
Whereabouts are you?
You give a budget in £ sterling but the links you give are for US ebay.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 19:14:54 GMT
Whereabouts are you? You give a budget in £ sterling but the links you give are for US ebay. I found US Ebay has a wider choice and is cheaper even with shipping. A to be honest i only drew up the plan a week ago. i only put it up here to get opinions and advice.
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Post by Radchenister on Mar 14, 2014 19:26:42 GMT
Ah, perhaps you mean it then! Bit bonkers that list - I'd start from a sound base personally. A 105 set from Merlin would be where I would look first if getting serious about a really sorted bike, the fiddly bits of weight you can scratch around at over time, trying to get to 7kg is a tall order in my opinion and I'm with chas on quality of fit and robustness of set up. Unless you're about 5% body fat, extremely fit and racing either some form of other bike or another sport at a serious level, I can't see why you'd get bike weight or power meter orientated and also why you'd not be after a carbon lightweight bike with a dead stiff frame and race geometry instead. I love my T3 but it's a functional fitness / touring / training / sportive style bike, not really worth trying to make it 'race' with too much commitment - personally I've just fitted a Tiagra at less cost than the 105, slightly heavier perhaps but most likely just as slick and maybe more robust / maintainable / cost effective over time; transforms the bike ... now it's Specilized-Allez-Elite-esque !
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 19:37:58 GMT
A decent wheelset and perhaps going to Tiagra/105 as Rad suggests above and it'll feel like a completely different bike.
What is your fitness like at the moment? Give us some stats of your most recent 50+ mile ride (average speed, elevation gain etc) because it may be that you'd be better off slogging away on your current set up for another six months and saving up for a new ride for next season(?).
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 19:52:23 GMT
@dancelikelance Would racing on a heavier bike really be that bad? It'd mean that when you do switch to a lighter bike you'd really notice the difference as you'd be a lot fitter. Essentially it'd be the cycling equivalent of sportsman strapping weights to their ankles/wrists/chest when training to increase their running strength & speed. If you already have £600, you could continue to save and upgrade to a much lighter bike when you're a better rider (see Rose CRS-4400 weighing 6.7kg for just over triple that £600 at £1,900 for an example). If you're serious about lightness being the way forward then I'd rethink and put must of your budget into the wheels then budget for the rest of the components taking the wheels into consideration. A few forum members have bought wheels from a wheelbuilding/component place called Superstar components & these are claimed as 1360g for £190: superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=834@tribanuser has a set IIRC, so they may be better placed informing you on what they're like as wheels. Remember that the triban is never going to be the lightest, stiffest frameset out there - it was never intended to be. The wheels & frameset are the two heaviest components that make up your bike and the biggest loss in weight is from changing those. Also, like @kombatcookie has already said, saddles & handlebars are personal things dependent on your size & shape so lightest may not always be the best for you (definite trial and error in this regard). *edit* If you're wondering, I have upgraded my T3 to a mix of 105 & ultegra with FSA cranks, a One23 carbon seatpost, a Selle Italia SLR team edition saddle & Swiss Side Heidi wheelset by buying upgrades as and when special offers came up/I could afford things/stock components wore. The only original parts (bar the frameset) left are the handlebars and the brake callipers. I've no idea what it weighs and it's certainly made it a completely different animal to stock, but I'd still say it's nowhere near the 7kg mark.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2014 19:56:44 GMT
Top advice there ^
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Post by captslog on Mar 14, 2014 21:12:30 GMT
Whereabouts are you? You give a budget in £ sterling but the links you give are for US ebay. I found US Ebay has a wider choice and is cheaper even with shipping. A to be honest i only drew up the plan a week ago. i only put it up here to get opinions and advice. fair enough. I wondered if that was the reason. I've bought a few things from US ebay myself, windturbine parts. Be aware that you can get stung for import duty though, and then there is also a handling charge for collecting said duty which is payable to Royal Mail or a duty warehouse if it goes through one. No2 son bought me a poster for my birthday last year, he didn't notice at the time that it came from USA, it ended up costing me £18
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2014 1:40:42 GMT
Yes I got those really light wheels (around 1400g) but with them being 20/24H they felt flimsy. I ended up putting my old triban 3 wheels back on that feel bombproof in comparison.
Thing is... guys you might like this... I have been on a carbon frame for ages, I ended up swapping both my frame and wheels and thus became a non-triban user. Now, I am bored with the carbon frame and miss the stiffness of the triban. The carbon frame has sideways flex, other peeves are the front mech cable going into a hole in the frame and just making the shift tight and horrible.
Bottom line is I don't fully trust carbon fiber! I want to get back on the triban again. Can you believe it?
So I bought a triban 3, swapped the wheels for 1400g race wheels, swapped the frame for a carbon one weighing 1KG less... but then I have a bike thats flexy. You can bend those rims towards the brake pads so easily. They really are for racing only.
I like the carbon build but I dunno, I feel safer on a metal frame and I am gonna get it back on the go again. The Triban 3 is more of a touring bike and I prefer that.
Does anyone know what headset this thing takes?! Its 41mm internally. I just can't find the one I took out but it was junk anyway (sorry Decathlon lol).
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Post by Paulinblack on Nov 16, 2014 6:00:19 GMT
You ain't gettin' in me on no damn plane Murdock. Ahh! That's why BA was worried about flying. I thought he was scared of flying, not Murdock's amorous advances!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2014 16:13:59 GMT
The Radchenister guide here says you need an "FSA #11" headset. triban3owners.freeforums.net/thread/3126/headset-servicing-2012-t3-redTriban 3... Y U NO integrated headset! EDIT: I gave the original headset a good service (1st time ever doing it) and its not so hard. I used a magnet with a tissue on it to keep the ball bearings in one place. I thought if they touch the magnet they might get scratched by it and well, what would be the point even servicing it if I am going to do that! Rinsed the bare rings around in paraffin and dried off, then put it all back together and used Park Tool bottom bracket grease and packed in as much grease as I could while leaving the outside reasonably clean, but grease coming out is a good thing. Now its all assembled again and grit free it should stay good for 6 months. Anyone scared of doing this, don't be! You don't even have to take the headset out, but I happened to have it removed from the Triban 3 head tube. The important part is using a magnet and remembering sometimes, bearings can just fall right out! Especially when assembling it when its clean (before greasing). The grease can sort of hold those looser bearings in but do it all over a bowl with a magnet in the bowl. Can't wait to get back on a metal frame again. Yep, I used a carbon frame for 6 months and I'm bored with it, its so flexy (left to right). Doesn't even feel safe compared to a metal frame. Folks, I can't advise anyone but carbon to me wasn't worth the weight saving. I lost 28lbs of fat in the last 5 months, why does 2lb on a frame matter? So then the benefits outweigh the cons, because its a nice strong stiff frame the Triban 3, whereas people that can't afford expensive carbon frames so buy a cheap one like I did, find they are flexy! I don't know why people say carbon is stiff, the frame as a whole isn't, they mean the tubing, well yeah, I agree, its stiff, but its silly to then ignore the fact that you have a bike frame thats over a meter long! I can flex the dropouts on my carbon frame way easier than my Triban 3 and I hate that!
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robf
Peloton Rider
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Post by robf on Nov 17, 2014 18:34:17 GMT
In my opinion, your wasting a lot of time and money. If you want a really light bike, buy a carbon bike. If you want to enjoy riding fast, train harder.
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