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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 9:12:37 GMT
Further to my other post, I'm torn between a 3, 3a and 5a. It will be used mainly for commuting about 12 miles each way, and will realistically get a bit more bashed up than a weekend bike would.
I'm getting a little concerned by reading about carbon fork failures, and in particular the concern that they have to be really well looked after and thrown away in the event of an accident. Even stuff like putting them on bike carriers seems to be frowned upon in some cases.
This has got me worried, and is almost leaning me towards a 3a just so I know it can be thrown about a bit.
Have there been any known failures of the forks on either the red 3 or 5a that we know of, or are they pretty bulletproof?
Also, although everyone keeps slagging off the white 3 for not having them, does it really make that much difference, especially on a commuter where I'll likely be wearing a backpack etc? And again, am I going to notice over 12 miles rather than 50+ mile weekend rides.
I'm kind of thinking that carbon forks are for pro and enthusiast weekend riding rather than commuting? Am I wrong? And ignoring the weight difference, am I really going to feel that much difference between carbon and steel?
Thanks
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Post by Radchenister on Sept 10, 2013 9:27:25 GMT
Further to my other post, I'm torn between a 3, 3a and 5a. It will be used mainly for commuting about 12 miles each way, and will realistically get a bit more bashed up than a weekend bike would. I'm getting a little concerned by reading about carbon fork failures, and in particular the concern that they have to be really well looked after and thrown away in the event of an accident. Even stuff like putting them on bike carriers seems to be frowned upon in some cases. This has got me worried, and is almost leaning me towards a 3a just so I know it can be thrown about a bit. Have there been any known failures of the forks on either the red 3 or 5a that we know of, or are they pretty bulletproof? Also, although everyone keeps slagging off the white 3 for not having them, does it really make that much difference, especially on a commuter where I'll likely be wearing a backpack etc? And again, am I going to notice over 12 miles rather than 50+ mile weekend rides. I'm kind of thinking that carbon forks are for pro and enthusiast weekend riding rather than commuting? Am I wrong? And ignoring the weight difference, am I really going to feel that much difference between carbon and steel? Thanks You can get by on all the bikes listed for commuting but road bikes aren't really proportionally robust, at least not to such an extent you can knock one about and not another. They're all fragile to abuse; if you want something tough then focussing on the minutiae of the 3, 3a or 5 and particularly the carbon v steel forks is a bit tunnel vision IMO. Why not buy a MTB or flat bar city or hybrid - just use road tyres, that way you can clunk about with gay abandon . If you are set on a trendy drop bar bike, like wot Wiggo, Cav n Froomy ride and rephrase the question as 'I want to commute on a road bike, should I choose the 3, 3a or 5?', then we're off and running ...
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Post by Whitestar1 on Sept 10, 2013 9:53:39 GMT
Yep rad is right as usual. My T7 has covered just over 1500 miles since March 29 2013. Now if that isn't good statistic for you then go and get that MTB rad is suggesting for you. It's how you take care of the bike that's important - that will determine just long the "carbon fork" will last.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 10:14:13 GMT
Thanks. Maybe I should have explained my situation better.
Currently using an mtb with lockable forks and slick mtb tyres.
I have an offroad route and a road route. I want to put mtb tyres back on and use that for offroad way, and have a road bike for the road route and a little weekend play where time permits.
I have been advised road bike will be much quicker and easier.The commute is NOT a round down route, and is down fairly long/wide roads.
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Post by Radchenister on Sept 10, 2013 10:40:12 GMT
Perhaps you need to prioritise your purposes of purchase?
The only real justifiable reason you buy a road bike is to go faster and you like a bit of sport / fitness work, over 12 miles I think I'd be perhaps 2 - 4 minutes slower on a flat bar bike or MTB with road tyres but a lot more comfy and roomy for commuting kit i.e. traveling at 12 - 14 mph rather than 16 - 18 mph.
Not only will it be less comfy in commuting wear, it will likely require more maintenance and can be more fickle - may even protest and break if ridden over potholes in the dark, on a misty winter morning say. Riding with a backpack is not nice in the forward prone position (I do it sometimes with a very small one on long tour rides, so I can take some flip flops and baggy shorts, plus an insulative / rain jacket, some food etc), I did this only twice this summer, you sweat more under it (it usually evaporates) and it just isn't so nice when leaning over the bars.
If you really hanker after road riding as an enthusiast but are justifying it via the commuting role, then fine, but at least be clear with yourself, or else you could end up with something you regret owning after the initial novelty wears off. I would commute on a Triban but I'd probably hanker after a hybrid, especially during the winter when you need to dress like a binman, I would wince at road salt and wet spraying about, so would need mud guards, would worry about not being focussed on the road as much as when on a designated sporty ride, so would want good 25 tyres etc. (we've just added about Β£50 - Β£70) but then these are not as sporty for chasing Strava times ... there's a lot of issues to think through.
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Post by zoltansocrates on Sept 10, 2013 10:43:38 GMT
Further to my other post, I'm torn between a 3, 3a and 5a. It will be used mainly for commuting about 12 miles each way, and will realistically get a bit more bashed up than a weekend bike would. I'm getting a little concerned by reading about carbon fork failures, and in particular the concern that they have to be really well looked after and thrown away in the event of an accident. Even stuff like putting them on bike carriers seems to be frowned upon in some cases. This has got me worried, and is almost leaning me towards a 3a just so I know it can be thrown about a bit. Have there been any known failures of the forks on either the red 3 or 5a that we know of, or are they pretty bulletproof? Also, although everyone keeps slagging off the white 3 for not having them, does it really make that much difference, especially on a commuter where I'll likely be wearing a backpack etc? And again, am I going to notice over 12 miles rather than 50+ mile weekend rides. I'm kind of thinking that carbon forks are for pro and enthusiast weekend riding rather than commuting? Am I wrong? And ignoring the weight difference, am I really going to feel that much difference between carbon and steel? Thanks thats down to pure ignoarance and fanboyism - pay no attention, the steel for looks better IMO and does the same job, it just isnt as light but we are talking a few grammes here, not kilos you would feel a difference between the two but if its a commute bike it needs to be bomb proof, go for the 3a, at least you know a crash isnt terminal
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 11:49:44 GMT
Thanks All. Will give some thought to some of the points raised, and had considered some of them myself already. I had considered getting a spare set of wheels for the MTB to swap over, but it just isn't cost effective. And most be stuff I've read seems discount hybrids on the basis that they aren't great for anything, and you are better off getting one or the other (road or MTB)
Although we've gone off track from the original question a little, I think I've probably talked myself out of carbon forks if nothing else.
Without the forks, this possibly brings the halfords carrera TDF into the frame as a competitor to the 3a. Bearing in mind I may be able to get one of these for around the 250 mark, how do they compare to the 3a?
Either way I'll try not to spend too much until I find out how I end up using it. For the record the commute isn't through town, has very few junctions and is on pretty long straight roads, so I'm still hoping a road bike would give a god advantage.
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Post by zoltansocrates on Sept 10, 2013 12:03:54 GMT
you cannot ask members of the TRIBAN owners club to comment positively about the carrera tdf
im sure its a lovely bike but it isnt a triban and doesnt have a place here, besides its yellow, now being a relatively budget bike being yellow casts aspertions of ventoux greatness, something akin to putting a big double spoiler on a citreon saxo, its just not right
and halfrauds arent exactly known for their aftersales, of course i/we cant be objective otherwise wed call this the triban and some budget bikes owners club
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 12:10:24 GMT
Ok then, clearly the triban 3a is better. But can we summarise the reasons why this is the case? Apart from it not being yellow
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Post by cocopops on Sept 10, 2013 12:16:14 GMT
Btt128 Hi
I own a red T3 it was only by luck that one came up on decathlon's web site, so brought it. however I would have been more than happy to go with the T3A. still a great bike for its price
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Post by Whitestar1 on Sept 10, 2013 12:27:07 GMT
you cannot ask members of the TRIBAN owners club to comment positively about the carrera tdf im sure its a lovely bike but it isnt a triban and doesnt have a place here, besides its yellow, now being a relatively budget bike being yellow casts aspertions of ventoux greatness, something akin to putting a big double spoiler on a citreon saxo, its just not right and halfrauds arent exactly known for their aftersales, of course i/we cant be objective otherwise wed call this the triban and some budget bikes owners club That's a new one - halfrauds!
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Post by Whitestar1 on Sept 10, 2013 12:28:04 GMT
Ok then, clearly the triban 3a is better. You got the right!
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Post by Radchenister on Sept 10, 2013 12:29:58 GMT
Ok then, clearly the triban 3a is better. But can we summarise the reasons why this is the case? Apart from it not being yellow No point in writing lists of issues ... you can if you like but I'm bored to death with it, as it's so subjective - for every view one way, there will be another somewhere else ! I'll simplify your thought process though: First decision: road bike or not road bike? I'll assume you're convinced yourself you want one already, despite my realistic and balanced advice not to jump to conclusions that this is the only answer ... and despite being a mod on the 'Triban' forum. Second decision: Either A. Go budget, it's not much of a gamble to buy a T3 or T3a, keep it in good condition - can be resold for circa Β£250 ish. The fork issue is a red herring, I'd be surprised if you can get a red one anyway. Just ride it like @carlosbi did all over the place fully laden. triban3owners.freeforums.net/thread/1927/Or B. Assume you're going to ride a bit racy at times and get into it properly so buy a 5. This has the SORA groupset many Red owners have upgraded to on it ready to go, also assume you will want new wheels at some point, as you're on the road to being a serial 'next best thing' purchaser already from what I can see, it will be a natural progression for you. ... simples!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 18:03:29 GMT
I'm no lightweight & I've hammered mountainbikes on rigid carbon forks for years. Also, the steerer on the T3 is alloy & that makes it a lot stronger. I've seen a few failed carbon road forks but it's almost always from hitting something head on, & then they tend to be full carbon forks & they go at the crown-steerer join. CX bikes (cyclocross) bikes mostly have disc brakes these days, & they generate a lot of flex in the fork legs & have carbon forks. Biggest killer on commutes is impact to rims. You could try a 25mm tyre, that would give you a bit more protection. Disc brakes are great for commuting, as they work regardless of conditions.
I used to tow a child trailer with a skinny steel tubed road bike, for a couple of years.!!!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2013 18:18:56 GMT
I just want to chime in and say that the TDF with the new claris kit is a decent commuter BUT only when it's at the Β£250 mark. A friend of mine who recently got into road cycling must have the nicest TDF in the country. Boardman carbon forks and Aksiums.
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