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Post by goffski on Aug 14, 2013 8:22:19 GMT
Out of interest has anyone used self adhesive patches instead? If so, any good? Use these all the time on my MTB, not used a repair kit for long time. They've always seemed to be pretty good to me. Not repaired a puncture on the road bike, just swapped out the tube. Not too sure how long it takes me but i must admit i'm not very quick, it's much quicker changing the MTB.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2013 8:29:16 GMT
Cheers goffski. Are they pretty durable or have you had problems later? I was thinking of getting the Wilko ones - what do you use?
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Post by DelB on Aug 14, 2013 8:40:47 GMT
Cheers goffski. Are they pretty durable or have you had problems later? I was thinking of getting the Wilko ones - what do you use? I use the Specialized 'Flat Boy' self-adhesive patches. They come in a wee plastic box about one inch x one inch x 2mm and contain half a dozen patches. Dead easy to use.
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 14, 2013 9:20:50 GMT
I've had three so far, two near home with no kit so Mrs out and popped in car, one other with robertsims who's pump was useless, tyre done in perhaps a couple of minutes pump didn't do anything. Since sourced decent Park Tools frame pump and sod's law dictates none since - I have done perhaps hundreds on MTBs etc though the years. Changed the T3 perhaps 10 times at home so far, while swapping tubes and tyres etc. Would say 3 - 5 minutes about normal but take your time and 8 - 10 minutes is perfectly respectable; it's no indication of anything important how fast you are, no need to worry about it. Quicker is of course possible, I think a pro fellow (Mark Cavendish's buddy, forget his name) raced a pro mech on the Cycle Show last year and did it in seconds on a wheel off the bike, so add in wheel removal and Co2 and theoretically we're at under a minute. Front or back makes little difference. If you get the chain in middle front, plus small rear and practice holding derailleur out the way, plus passing the tyre through blocks and notching it into frame you'll soon be quicker. Pro teams do of course change a whole wheel in the blink of an eye; their tyres are usually tubeless and glued on and the change will obviously be done by a guy who perhaps takes the whole team's wheels in and out at least twice a day. Why anyone would give ukdaws a hard time for giving just about the right target speed is beyond me, play nicely now . If you're slower then so what? I can't ride 200kms at 40kmh, doesn't mean others don't, although next year I'll be going for stage race distances at over 30 - Ventoux here I come .
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Post by Whitestar1 on Aug 14, 2013 9:29:21 GMT
Well lets see front is set at delboy - 5 mins rear is set at 9 mins by eggandham - what an unusual name!
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Post by goffski on Aug 14, 2013 9:35:22 GMT
Cheers goffski. Are they pretty durable or have you had problems later? I was thinking of getting the Wilko ones - what do you use? No, not had any problems with them. On the MTB i was always getting rear punctures, the patches did the trick. Not too sure on the make of them, i'd previously picked some up in Halfords but the last lot i think came from Decathlon. I had been running some latex tubes, not too sure if you can fix these with repair kits or not ?
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Post by Whitestar1 on Aug 14, 2013 9:37:05 GMT
I've had three so far, two near home with no kit so Mrs out and popped in car, one other with robertsims who's pump was useless, tyre done in perhaps a couple of minutes pump didn't do anything. Since sourced decent Park Tools frame pump and sod's law dictates none since - I have done perhaps hundreds on MTBs etc though the years. Changed the T3 perhaps 10 times at home so far, while swapping tubes and tyres etc. Would say 3 - 5 minutes about normal but take your time and 8 - 10 minutes is perfectly respectable; it's no indication of anything important how fast you are, no need to worry about it. Quicker is of course possible, I think a pro fellow (Mark Cavendish's buddy, forget his name) raced a pro mech on the Cycle Show last year and did it in seconds on a wheel off the bike, so add in wheel removal and Co2 and theoretically we're at under a minute. Front or back makes little difference. If you get the chain in middle front, plus small rear and practice holding derailleur out the way, plus passing the tyre through blocks and notching it into frame you'll soon be quicker. Pro teams do of course change a whole wheel in the blink of an eye; their tyres are usually tubeless and glued on and the change will obviously be done by a guy who perhaps takes the whole team's wheels in and out at least twice a day. Why anyone would give ukdaws a hard time for giving just about the right target speed is beyond me, play nicely now . If you're slower then so what? I can't ride 200kms at 40kmh, doesn't mean others don't, although next year I'll be going for stage race distances at over 30 - Ventoux here I come . That's the SMT for you!
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Post by Whitestar1 on Aug 14, 2013 9:39:05 GMT
Cheers goffski. Are they pretty durable or have you had problems later? I was thinking of getting the Wilko ones - what do you use? No, not had any problems with them. On the MTB i was always getting rear punctures, the patches did the trick. Not too sure on the make of them, i'd previously picked some up in Halfords but the last lot i think came from Decathlon. I had been running some latex tubes, not too sure if you can fix these with repair kits or not ? That's a on going argument on the use of regular tubes or latex. Wouldn't go down that road for love or money. Off to Decathlon to pick up another cheap tube. Wont be caught without two!
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Post by Radchenister on Aug 14, 2013 9:43:29 GMT
I might just add, if you're going to take Whitestar up on this, do spare a second or two for checking the inner is not pinched before full inflation (perhaps put in a little air then rotate and squeeze the tyre walls a bit) and set your wheels in the stops with the right alignment and the correct calliper tension - more haste less speed ... don't want to hear follow on stories of woe.
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Post by Whitestar1 on Aug 14, 2013 10:15:25 GMT
I might just add, if you're going to take Whitestar up on this, do spare a second or two for checking the inner is not pinched before full inflation (perhaps put in a little air then rotate and squeeze the tyre walls a bit) and set your wheels in the stops with the right alignment and the correct calliper tension - more haste less speed ... don't want to hear follow on stories of woe. There you go again rad! You know what I mean lol yet again you are so right!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2013 10:32:25 GMT
And of course ensure the alignment between valve stem and wheel and/or tire graphics is not sacrificed in the quest for speed!
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Post by ukdaws on Aug 14, 2013 10:42:05 GMT
Well lets see front is set at delboy - 5 mins rear is set at 9 mins by eggandham - what an unusual name! Why can you not accept that my reply was a truthfull one and i still say i will not be the quickest. Maybe i am good at these kind of things as have been a mechanic for the last 28 years.I certainly am not the fastest or fittest cycle rider but at 44 years old i have no reason to try and impress anyone with my tube changing skills!!
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Post by ukdaws on Aug 14, 2013 10:47:05 GMT
I've had three so far, two near home with no kit so Mrs out and popped in car, one other with robertsims who's pump was useless, tyre done in perhaps a couple of minutes pump didn't do anything. Since sourced decent Park Tools frame pump and sod's law dictates none since - I have done perhaps hundreds on MTBs etc though the years. Changed the T3 perhaps 10 times at home so far, while swapping tubes and tyres etc. Would say 3 - 5 minutes about normal but take your time and 8 - 10 minutes is perfectly respectable; it's no indication of anything important how fast you are, no need to worry about it. Quicker is of course possible, I think a pro fellow (Mark Cavendish's buddy, forget his name) raced a pro mech on the Cycle Show last year and did it in seconds on a wheel off the bike, so add in wheel removal and Co2 and theoretically we're at under a minute. Front or back makes little difference. If you get the chain in middle front, plus small rear and practice holding derailleur out the way, plus passing the tyre through blocks and notching it into frame you'll soon be quicker. Pro teams do of course change a whole wheel in the blink of an eye; their tyres are usually tubeless and glued on and the change will obviously be done by a guy who perhaps takes the whole team's wheels in and out at least twice a day. Why anyone would give ukdaws a hard time for giving just about the right target speed is beyond me, play nicely now . If you're slower then so what? I can't ride 200kms at 40kmh, doesn't mean others don't, although next year I'll be going for stage race distances at over 30 - Ventoux here I come . Thankyou for not just dissing me over a time that i see as ok..
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Post by ukdaws on Aug 14, 2013 10:50:04 GMT
Just noticed i have got 2 stars and have become a forum regular..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2013 11:33:33 GMT
I'm not looking forward to my first puncture with the new wheels as it took me an age to swap the tyres. It's a very tight fit.
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