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Post by Radchenister on Jul 5, 2013 8:45:57 GMT
Not either side, meant dovetail.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2013 15:26:53 GMT
Not sure about weight, you could probably have lost the difference in the time you've not been riding your road bike . The thumb shifters are down to personal choice. The new 3a n 5a slot either side of old 3 n 5, if looking at old 5, may as well go new 7 (as long as your hill climbing is up to it). You will want new wheels at some point on 3 n 5, probably the 7. The red 3 is a one off bargain, if you can get one now of course. IMO the 5a is really the new 3 and is taken up a level better for group-set, shifters and saddle - with new wheels it's pretty sorted but it's a chunk more dosh. You may NOT wish to change the gearing, saddle and cranks on it, as they are better than the red, in which case it makes little odds that it costs more, when taking upgrades into consideration but add a rear cassette and a new saddle and the red wins again. The crank upgrades a lot of us have done have wiped out Merlin's supply of bargain Sora type, so that now costs more. You will need to get gear orientated with any choice. That's very helpful. Couple of final questions then: If we focused specifically on rear cassette and cranks, to what extent are the 5a components superior and lighter to those on the red 3? Or to look at a different way, how superior (quality and weight) to the 5a components are the upgrades that you and other forum members have been fitting to your Red 3's. I've read that a good number of you have the PG850 cassette. I appreciate your time and input..... Cheers.
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Post by stevo on Jul 5, 2013 15:44:19 GMT
ailsabob, as I see it, the only difference is the sora rear mech, and crank. The red has the sora front mech anyway (triple) The new sora have brake lever changers as opposed to the thumb changer (which sora and 2300 used to share - having tried Tiagra, I actually prefer the thumbshifters) If you were looking at purchasing these items separately, their wouldn't be a great deal of price difference.
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 5, 2013 15:47:52 GMT
Don't think it's about weight at this level of bike really (although we do consider it), really it's all about fitness, rideability and endurance - coupled with terrain considerations. Most who tackle hilly terrain have gone for 28 at the bottom end.
I checked the rear cassette earlier and realise it's a 12 / 25 on the T5a, the same as the T3, so no benefit there.
I would be OK on that gearing now but saying that, if I'm on a long one and just want to climb a hill easily and in a more relaxed way, having a 28 is nice for that (tomorrow is a 50 miler in Wales and I will be thankful of it).
So the consideration is how do you intend to ride and can you climb OK on a 25, remembering that even some of our high mileage boys have gone to 28 to get over nasty stuff (or even more - Davey I think is on more, as he goes up 25% plus inclines and is no slouch, both fast and has ridden 5000 miles this year) .
Some could likely get away with a 25 if they had to but it's not as forgiving and really steep stuff would be hard; this is the same for both bikes.
The cranks are better on the T5a though (stiffness and gear changing is smoother) and many of us have upgraded to equivalent to what's on the T5a - so really it all comes down to your game plan for upgrades and adding up the precise pennies.
Priority is likely, saddle (if necessary - T5a would suit me fine, the T3 option didn't), pedals (clipless), cassette (if necessary for you), wheels (& tyres but only perhaps when they wear), chain when it wears, cassette will wear as well but slower, although it will be of most benefit at the start (perhaps, depending on routes tackled), put brake blocks in the list wherever you like as discussed earlier, some get by without them, others want to upgrade quickly.
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Post by Radchenister on Jul 5, 2013 16:10:01 GMT
Oops, almost forgot, you get 9 gears on the rear cassette on the 5a. If I was in the position now and money wasn't the only driver (it never was really for me but it feels cheaper and is fun finding your way with incremental upgrades, it can be a bit cheaper if you spot bargains). I would actually be umming and ahing over the 5a and 7 at current fitness level; if we assume we're aiming for the equivalent of a well trimmed up red T3 as a sorted bike, no compromises at that level - I'd go for a start up of: T5a. Exustar or similar road pedals (you might consider SPD ones either completely committed or as a transition). Decent road shoes (you may go for SPD ones either completely committed or as a transition). 11-28 rear cassette. New wheels (keep old tyres until worn a bit). Get out and ride it as much as possible while the sun's out and get ready for 3 times a week over the winter. If money is your driver, get a red T3 (if you can find one by the time you've dithered over it ) and get out and ride it, upgrade in due course. Either pal up with a LBS (or a nearby Decathlon of course)and /or learn how to adjust and fix things - perhaps see it as part of the regime of road riding.
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